You need a car if you live in L.A. It’s big and hard to get around. For good food, you need a car in Cornwall. Forty minute drives for meals are not uncommon and thanklessly our current government’s stance on drinking and driving leaves little room for fun.
A trek to North Cornwall (Rock) feels like a continent away from my Falmouth Bay HQ so I had to be sure it would be worth the visit. The colour of Nathan Outlaw’s sideburns do not match his hair, this was surely reason enough.
My girlfriend at the time enjoyed a delicious cocktail of gin, elderflower and fresh rosemary while I, the designated driver, huffed and puffed over a glass of water – brilliant. The sting of sobriety was, however, lessened as we both enjoyed a very unhealthy bowl of pork scratchings and perused the menu.
Each course was expertly executed with the stand out dish being Sea Bream on cocoa bean casoulet. The precise pan frying resulted in delicate fillets of bream showcasing crisp, crisp skin that ate like seaside-crackling, all set upon powdery pulses and tomato sauce.
Far and away the best dish of the night was my custard tart. Lady friend’s coffee and chocolate mousse was also good but I was smug with my out-ordering. My smugness soon faded as I noticed an air of drunkenness about her and smugness turned to envy.
The food is well worth the drive and the service is full of character. It was nice to get a sense of personality from the waiting staff who collaborated with my, now former, girlfriend in hiding my dessert during a toilet stop. Save for a misleading name – Nathan Outlaw cooks at his flagship restaurant also housed at St. Enodoc – this was one of my favourite dining experiences in Cornwall , a must.
To have enjoyed the wine list fully would have been a treat and perhaps next time a stay in the hotel could facilitate this, just need to find a new companion. Please apply herein.
- Austin Peasley
(You might also fancy a nosey at Peasley's review of Viners at Summercourt)
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